While everyone was busy being experts on British politics, I was out at the bowlderz gathering critical intel on a couple of suspects. What are they suspected of, exactly? Being too awesome. And selling drugs to children.

The first one is still a project, and I suspect it’s due to the spicy landing. Dubbed the Cassius Clay project, it follows an initial compression sequence between an arete and a series of holds down a weathered runnel, an off-balance transition slap, and an exit requiring a couple of long, tenuous reaches between reasonably good holds.










It’s the transition section that could result in ultimate doom, as if a prospector hits the slap and peels off, he or she will be thrown off the landing platform and over a short cliff. Not ideal. Myself, DT and Niky Ceria worked it off a rope, and I came away only needing to do a small section leading into the transition moves. Today, with the help of my trusty ladder, Black Dow (called thus because although it’s dead useful, it’s a bitch to deal with, and it bites), I was able to make the final link and solidify the beta. All that’s left is to have one or two more top-rope sessions dialing in the second half, and then it’s a case of if I have the minerals to go for the send, or if I’ll in fact be too scurrrrrrd and squeal like a lil bitch.

The other line is of course Biotronic, FA’d in magic style by Niky during his visit. All I wanted to do was the second half of the problem (not the top out), which I was able to pin down relatively fast, before the pocket cut my fingers off. Now all that’s left to do is the span. Far too hot today, however, which is an odd thing to say in the middle of june.



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