Keith_Richards_i_Pirates_of_the_Caribbean_-_On_Stranger_Tides

Profane Rituals

FA’d an obscure little project in the heart of Quantum Field that Derek showed me last year. Proposed beta was to launch from the good jug to a flat edge, until Niky Ceria reached out left to a good two-finger crimp, and turned the jump into a mad blind barndoor snatch. Very cool move. And …

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Triple Threat

The first problem in the Triple Threat goes down! What is the Triple Threat you ask? What are the other two, because it wouldn’t be a Triple Threat with only two threats, would it? Or four. Or even seven. Then it’d probably be a Septuple Threat, and that just sounds ultra-gehy. First off, it’s time …

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Fat Lip

Name: Fat of the Land Grade: V7 Location: Spittle Hill, Castle Hill Style: slab+slopey arete+sketchy mantle topout Status: Under-appreciated Spittle uber classic FA: Matt Pierson What a stunning piece of rock this is. At first glance totally blank and vomitously heinous. Who in their right minds would ever contemplate approaching this edifice of pure hate and loathing? …

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Highball super classic

Name: Suns out Guns out Grade: V9ish Location: Meadow area, Wairere Status: unrepeated Style: heady arete climbing on good holds. Crux at the top overhang. FA: Stu Kurth Automatic three star problem this. Twas the first boulder I clapped eyes on, but it took three trips to send, due to its tricky beta and committing …

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Architexture

Name: Architexture SDS Grade: V10 Location: gully behind Beergarden; Froggat edge Style: arete heel-hooking to dicey shoulder-lock topout Status: obscure. Sitstart unlocked. Unrepeated FA: Stu Kurth It’s been so long I can’t actually remember what year I put this up. Possibly 2007? Difficult to say. Notable at the time as a project without any nasty …