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Acapulco

Name: Acapulco Grade: V11 Location: Flock Hill, upper left Style: barn-doors to precision crux at the last move Status: three ascents, ankle crushing potential FA: Derek Thatcher One among dozens of problems established in ’09, by none other than Derek Thatcher himself. The line sits on the tail end of a massive buttress, in a …

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By the Power of Greyskull!

A quick fire update about the Mastering (as in climbing) of the Universe (as in Froggat). At long last–after four days of effort–I managed to get the FA of the last hard project at Froggat and thus give birth to (see title). I snaked down there with some lads from work, and did it in …

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Far North FA

Name: Ngahere Millionaire’s Club Grade: V8 Location: Ngahere drive, Whangarei Status: unrepeated Style: overhung arete crimping with dicey highball topout I have a terrible habit of snaking people’s projects when they either a) aren’t looking, or b) show me the project and leave it unattended for more than a few weeks, or c), all of …

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Crash and Burn

Name: Crash & Burn Grade: V10 Location: Quantum Field Style: big moves between big holds to a high committing crux Status: Quantum test-piece. Classic hard highball Of all the harder lines around Castle Hill, this one stands out as one of the proudest and most alluring. Straddling a wide sloping arete on the huge Headlights …

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The Joker

Name: The Joker Grade: V9 Location: Spittle Hill, Castle Hill Status: area test-piece Style: everything Every bouldering area has classics. Usually accompanied by 3 stars in any guide, they are at the top of most peoples tick-lists, and for many, become instant highlights to any trip. They should encapsulate the spirit and style of an …